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Thursday, November 28, 2013

I did some touch up work on the bottom.  Hoisted her up and set her on a pair of posts.  I used three hoists this time to spread the weight over a larger area and yes my canopy is still standing.  Now that the Somes Sound is completed she is going up for sale.  I am asking $20,000 but that is negotiable. She is listed on the Spaulding Wooden Boat Center Website at www.woodenboatfinder.blogspot.com/2013/10/somes-sound-12-12.html.   I will be taking her to our home in Southern California so I can sail her in Ventura Harbor or Channel Islands Harbor.  The wind is much more predictable along the coast.   I am currently in the process of starting a new build.  My next venture will be a Rundgatting Snipa drawn by Bertil Andersson.  The plans are available from www.batritningar.se/boatplans.aspx.  The Snipa is a double ended sail/row boat.  The one I will be building is 14 1/2 long.   I am starting a new blog for the Snipa build at norticboats1.blogspot.com.  Love to have you join me for a two year adventure.

Monday, June 24, 2013






Finally got the mast stepped and the sails up.  She fits the trailer very well.  All she needs now is her CF numbers and we will put her in the water.
Sailing in the foothill lakes can be a real challenge.  On the day we launched the wind was from the West and supposed to  blow from 5 to 9 mph.  In reality it blew from 0 to  about 5 mph.  I sat becalmed 10 feet from the dock for the first five minutes.  Finally we started to get a gust now and then.  She handles beautifully tacking on a dime.  Hopefully I'll have better wind next time and post some pictures with a little more action.

Monday, May 20, 2013

Time to customize the trailer


The Trailer is an EZloader EZW 14-18 2,100 lb capacity with torsion bar suspension.  I took the large rear bunk supports and installed them mid section.  I then scribe'd a wood block to fit the hull and added filler blocks until I had a nice tight fit against the hull.  Once again my overhead bracing did the job of lifting her off the chocks and setting her gently on the trailer.
  Here is a close up of the wood blocking wrapped in the carpet that came with the original bunker.  I used the remaining bunker as a center support for the keel.  That is why I ordered the torsion bar model so I wouldn't have an axle interfering with my keel bunker.  The steel bunker support was about 30" long by 4" wide so it made a perfect support . Another feature of this trailer is you can relocate the cross bars.  I moved both crass bars forward to the next hole to get better placement of the lead keel on the bunker.  I will probably need to move the torsion bar bracket forward as she has to much tongue weight.


The mast support was made from two pieces of  1/8" by 4" flat rolled steel.  It fit very nicely on either side of the roller support and I simply made a wood insert to hold the mast.














The stern mast support simply attaches to the bulkhead.  I installed two 3/4" by 1 1/2" oak strips with nut certs to receive the bolts.  This way once the bolts have been loosened you can remove them without a wrench.  The Gaff mast is 18' long so it fits nicely on the boat and trailer.  The brace also helps to steady the mast when you are getting ready to step it.











As you can see the mast fits nicely in the chocks.  I added tie downs on either side of the chocks to facilitate strapping the mast to the chocks.









And finally the sails are on and they fit.  Still have a few small issues to resolve but for the most part she is ready for launching.  The mast gets a bit heavy when you add the blocks and rope.  I am using 3/8" Dacron  for the running rigging and 1/4" three strand nylon for the lazy jacks.  I am still working on a good way to step the mast without scaring the forward bulkhead.  If anyone has some thoughts as how best to step the mast I will be happy to listen.  I'll photograph the hardware installation on my next post.  

Friday, March 8, 2013


The weather is finally getting a little warmer and it's time to start mixing epoxy again.  I decided I didn't like looking at all the screws holding the Coaming to the sheer stiffener.  Since I still had one sheet of 3/8 marine ply left I decided to overlay the first sheet and epoxy the two together.  I cut and scarfed the  plywood using the original 1/8 template I spiled the overlay sheet slightly larger so I could sand it in to match the original coaming.  After a couple of dry fits I was satisfied with the new piece.

The most challenging problem was pulling the bottom edge of the plywood tight against the original coaming.  Fortunately I had over-sized the original coaming as I did not want to look at the bottom edge of the sheer stiffener   This gave me a small lip to get a C clamp to grab hold of and with a wood brace clamped to the coaming the C clamp was able to pull the new plywood overlay tight up against the existing coaming.  I also stained the new coaming piece prior to installation to keep the epoxy from spotting the plywood  preventing stain from covering evenly.



































































































































Sunday, October 21, 2012

I think I have discovered the most difficult task in the construction of the Somes Sound.  After lofting the lines for the coaming I made a template from 1/8" plywood and  did a dry fit. Everything seemed to be going well.  I then used the bandsaw to resaw a 4 quarter board into 1/4" pieces.  After lining off the boards with the template I cut them out and began a dry fit.  That's when things started to go wrong.  Clamping the 1/4" board in place was a real challenge and when I tried to make the final turn at the bow I started to hear crackling sounds.  NOT GOOD. The board split at the notch where it steps
up onto the bow.  It also started cracking along the top when I tried to pull it to the center-line.  The African Mahogany was very dry and not willing to cooperate.  When I tried to buy another board the hardwood supplier had run out of the previous lot and the new shipment was substantially lighter in color.  If it weren't for bad luck I wouldn't have had any luck at all.  To make a long story short I decided to switch over to 3/8 Mahogany marine plywood as I had two sheet available.  I ripped a 4X8 into two 2X4's and scarfed them together.  Once cut to shape the plywood was far more cooperative.  The bend at the bow went smoothly and everything fit as it should.  I used Interlux Mahogany Brown stain to darken the plywood.  Once I had a coat of stain on it I was very pleased with the results.  I suppose the correct  answer would have been to install the coaming prior to finishing the deck so I could have screwed blocking in place to properly secure the Mahogany.  Holding the coaming in place with only one person was the major challenge.

The other lesson learned is don't install the trim on top of the bulkhead prior to installing the coaming.  I plan to remove the trim and reinstall it to get a clean fit against the coaming.
Other than that things went pretty well. A few more coats of varnish and some touch up on the white paint and it will be time to put her on a trailer.  I still have the main and gaff boom to build and the club for the jib.  Those are good garage projects as it is going to be getting too cold to work with paint or varnish outside.

Monday, October 1, 2012

The hole for the tiller handle is cut and the tiller actually fits.  The cherry wood inlay has been stained with pine tar wood sealer. That's a combination of pine tar,  boiled linseed oil, and mineral spirits.  Normally I would use turpentine and japan dryer but California has declared turpentine persona non gratis so our hardware store no longer carries it.
Add six to eight coats of varnish and it looks pretty good.
Centerboard cap with a compass rose inlay and the pulley block and cleat.
After lofting the coaming board I realized the 8" X 12' plank was not quite big enough.  I guess I should read the specks before I go shopping.  The plans call for 12" wide material.  On the other hand resawing an 8" board versas a 12" board and scarfing on a small piece may not be such a bad idea.  I'll need to think about that for a while.
 This is a bracket I made to mount my electric motor to the Starboard gunwale just forward of the transom.

Saturday, September 1, 2012

Pictured is the miniature milling machine I used to jig the 3/8 half round brass strips.  I drilled a 1/8" hole exactly in the center of the crown.  The holes were drilled 6" on center and 1/4" from the end. 
Once the brass trim was aligned on the rail I enlarged the pilot hold to 5/16" to fit a #6 silicone bronze screw shank.  I then drilled a 1/8" pilot hole to accept the threads.  I started out using a tapered drill bit, but the third silicone bronze screw I attempted to install broke off at the head.  That was the end of the tapered drill.  Once I went to the two step drilling process everything went along very well.
The reason I used the counter sink bit after the brass rail was in place is because of the tendency of brass to brake when transported after drilling.  The brass comes in 12' lengths shipped in a coil.  After straightening the coil I drilled the brass and had my wife help me carry the material to the boat and tape it in place.
On the bow where you see the curve I used a 30" section which was much more manageable in the metal bender.  That left about 18" for the stern which made it easier to cut the mitered end to match the cut of the rail.  I decided to removed the bow plate and add a  radius to the outside edges.  A good friend had looked at the original square edge and asked if I was going to leave it like that.  Nothing like a little peer pressure to motivate you to go the extra mile.
I had just enough material left over to run a strip of brass down the bow to the junction of the lead ballast.  Not much room under there for drilling and all the other stuff you need to do, but it worked.
If you look closely you can see the toe rail has been added from the bow chock to the chain plates.

I forgot to mention I painted the sheer strike yellow and added a second smaller rail along the bottom of the strike.  I got the the idea from the front cover of the  September/ October issue of Small Craft Advisor.  They pictured Pet Culler's Buzzards Bay Sloop painted yellow with a blue stripe.